Halifax doesn't strike outsiders as the place to find authentic Chinese food, but its abundant seafood, farm-fresh veggies and sizable Chinese population create a perfect combination for just that. You will never have to drive too far to sate your urge for fried bean curd, kung pao chicken or Shanghai noodles.
Since 1984, the ever-popular Great Wall has been dominating downtown Halifax's Chinese food scene. Voted the best in the city by readers of local alt-weeky The Coast every year since the category began in 2002, its vast Cantonese and Szechuan menu, spearheaded by veteran owner Patrick Wong, is diverse enough to agree with anyone's palate. But it's the hefty dim sum lunches that keep regulars coming back. If you're there on a weekend, get there early, because it fills up quickly.
A venerable Spring Garden staple and university student hotspot, Jean's has been winning over locals with affordable prices and a huge menu for years. Its curries and sweet-and-sour dishes are particular favourites, though if you are in search of quality Japanese and Thai food, you can also find pad Thai and teriyaki noodles that will fill you up for the rest of the day.
The mark of a good Chinese restaurant is specialization. In this category, Fan's takes the mooncake. This exclusively Northern Chinese restaurant serves up some of the best ginger beef and black-bean chicken in the area. One of a few solid reasons to take the short ferry hop across the river into Dartmouth, even if you're staying in the 'fax – although they offer delivery across the water due to popular demand.
One of Halifax's best-kept secrets, 9 + Nine is tucked away in a Clayton Park strip mall, a 20-minute drive northwest of downtown. Casual diners know it for its steamed pork buns, dan dan noodle soup and ginger beef, but for die-hard fans, it means just one thing: A monthly $40, 10-course menu hosted by the owners and open to everyone. Go with an empty stomach.
For a quieter dining experience, this clean little Clayton Park hideaway is the perfect one. The food's not as greasy as the city's more popular restaurants, nor are the line-ups as long, but the grub is no less delicious. Try the egg and spring rolls to start, then move onto various dim sum rolls and steamed buns – or opt for one of the titanically portioned pineapple chicken, vegetable lo mein or Fu Jing fried rice dishes.
For truly authentic Chinese food, New Wing Wah, south of Long Lake, is a great option outside the downtown core. You could hardly spend more than $15 per person if you tried, while the dishes – ranging from authentic (fried calamari and mapo tofu with Szechwan peppercorn) to Canadian-style adaptations (sweet and sour pork, ginger chicken) – are on par with anything on peninsula Halifax. Check out their buffet every Friday night if you want a little bit of everything.
A solid west-end option that's perennially busy every night of the week, Fung Wah earns its name as one of Halifax's cozier neighbourhood spots. Combinations platters are the key item here – a mix of crunchy vegetables and tender chicken, beef and pork made to your specifications. It's gotten so popular that most just order take-out (admittedly, also because the 1980s interior decor is nothing to gawk at), but with most meals under $10, expect to pack your fridge with leftovers.
If you want economy, you can't beat Hop Sing. Located a bit outside the city centre on Herring Cove Road, two can split a "family dinner" – two egg rolls, beef fried rice, sweet and sour pork and chicken chow mien – for $19. Consider that, plus their numerous lunch combos for under $5, and it's remarkable these guys have managed to stay in business since 1972. The only reason is the quick service, organized menu and sheer quality of food.